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Thread: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

  1. #1
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    Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    This is a full writeup on your Racon 2.4GHz transmitter - everything from turning on your heli to fine tuning your controls, plus a lot more!

    For advanced users, check out dditch66's review: http://www.mycoolheli.com/reviews/ReviewERazor450.html

    Thanks to crashdummy for help with testing and to Steetz, DD, kloner, Andy and everyone else who helped iron out the wrinkles.

    Information provided here is based on testing of my E-RAZOR 450 in a sterile environment with no blades attached; corroborated by crashdummy's live tests of his E-RAZOR 450.



    Let's start with what I didn't like about the Dynam (RACON) 2.4GHZ 6CH transmitter:

    - You have to know what dip switches (1-7) to activate on this controller or it is impossible to fly.

    - There is no display and therefore no way to determine particular settings without a reader.

    - Only in China does UP = off and DOWN = on.  Welcome to China.

    - This TX sucks.  Get the DX6i with AR6200 RX for 164.99 (in cart).  http://thebarnfloor.com/catalog/prod...s_id=395   I did and I am a happier person now.



    (1) Transmitter defaults:
    _________________________________________________

    TEXT IN (PARENTHESES) IS THE DEFAULT START POSITION OR SETTING
    _________________________________________________




    (2) All controls explained:
    _________________________________________________

    Left stick UP/DOWN:  throttle, collective pitch and (if mixing) rudder pitch
    Left stick LEFT/RIGHT:  rudder pitch control

    Left stick UP/DOWN tab: throttle, collective pitch and (if mixing) rudder pitch trim (fixed adjustment)
    Left stick LEFT/RIGHT tab: rudder pitch control trim (fixed adjustment)


    Right stick UP/DOWN:  move forward, move backward
    Right stick LEFT/RIGHT:  move left, move right

    Right stick UP/DOWN tab:  move forward, move backward trim (fixed adjustment)
    Right stick LEFT/RIGHT tab: move left, move right trim (fixed adjustment)


    GEAR - designed for airplanes.  Not used on this helicopter.


    V2 knob - servo exponential (DIP 8) / pitch limit (DIP 9) / rudder mixing (DIP 10)


    V1 knob - throttle curve (DIP 8) / pitch (DIP 9) / gyro mode & gain (DIP 10)


    FLY - push forward for NORMAL, recommended

    FLY - pull back for 3D, motor runs all the time - move Left stick DOWN to decrease pitch and increase speed (upside down flying), move Left stick UP to increase pitch and increase speed (normal flying)


    DIP SWITCHES 1-7
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    These seven are either on or off, doing one thing or another thing.  Because China is on the opposite side of the world from America, the people living there walk upside down.  This explains why the Racon controller considers UP to be a default or OFF value.


    DIP 1 (PIT) - UP sets pitch (right) servo to normal (default),  DOWN is inverted.  Also messes with your cyclic control.


    DIP 2 (CCPM, ELEV) - UP is CCPM mode (default), DOWN will invert cyclic F/B control.  Forward becomes Backward, vice versa


    DIP 3 (NOR CCPM) - UP is Normal mode is for airplanes.  Keep this switch DOWN (default) to stay in 120-degree CCPM mode for helicopters


    DIP 4 (RUDD) - Default is DOWN for normal flight.  UP will invert rudder pitch (on Left stick).  Yaw Left becomes Yaw Right, vice versa


    DIP 5 (THRO) - invert throttle (on Left stick).  Up becomes Down, vice versa.  Pitch control is not affected.


    DIP 6 (AILE) - UP sets aileron (left) servo to normal (default),  DOWN is inverted.  Also messes with your cyclic control.


    DIP 7 (ELEV) - UP sets elevator (front) servo to normal (default), DOWN is inverted.



    DIP SWITCHES 8-10  more detail on these switches in section 4
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    For these three, UP is essentially a "Save settings and Exit" and DOWN is "Configure settings"   You only want to have 1 of these down at a time.


    DIP 8 (EXP) - DOWN is config mode.  Sets V2 to servo exponential and V1 to throttle curve.  Put it back UP when you're done with it.


    DIP 9 (PLT PIT) - DOWN is config mode.  Sets V2 to pitch limit and V1 to pitch.  Put it back UP when you're done with it.


    DIP 10 (RUDD MIX GYRO SENS) - DOWN is config mode.  Sets V2 to rudder mixing and V1 to gyro mode & gain.  Put it back UP when you're done with it.


    You need to understand exactly how each dip switch will impact your helicopter controls.  Test your own dip switches while on the ground in a sterile environment; remove main blades for added safety.  Don't change a dip switch while in flight unless you know exactly what you're doing.
    _________________________________________________





    (3) Recommended Startup Settings:
    _________________________________________________

    DIP switches:

    1 (PIT) - UP
    2 (CCPM, ELEV) - UP
    3 (NOR CCPM) - DOWN

    4 (RUDD) - DOWN
    5 (THRO) - UP
    6 (AILE) - UP
    7 (ELEV) - UP

    8 (EXP) - UP
    9 (PLT PIT) - UP
    10 (RUDD MIX GYRO SENS) - UP


    See section 4 for details on tuning with V1 and V2 knobs
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    V2 knob: centered

    V1 knob: centered
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    FLY switch: NORMAL, pushed forward

    Left stick all the way DOWN

    All trim tabs centered
    _________________________________________________





    (4) Fine tuning (V1 and V2 knobs in detail)
    _________________________________________________

    Can't make vids for this TX cause I've installed my DX6i w/AR6200.

    As we've stated, people in China walk upside down and therefore the DIPs on this controller are OFF/default when they are UP, so always have DIP 8 9 & 10 switched UP unless you want to make a change to your settings.


    With that in mind, switch DIP 8 (EXP) DOWN to enter config mode.  Move your cyclic (right) stick left and right and keep doing that.  Turn V2 all the way CW and you will see the servos move farther.  Turn V2 all the way CCW and you will see them move less.  That's your servo exponential.

    Throttle up until you get your blades spinning.  Very gently turn V1 CW and your throttle will increase.  Turn it back CCW and your throttle will decrease.  That's your throttle curve.




    Once you have these settings where you want them, switch DIP 8 back UP to save settings and exit configuration.



    Center V1 and V2 and switch DIP 9 (PLT PIT) DOWN to enter config mode.  V2 is your pitch limit (top end) and V1 is your pitch (bottom end).  CW to raise it, CCW to lower it.  Play around, you'll figure it out.  Once you have these settings where you want them, switch DIP 9 back UP to save settings and exit configuration.  Also see http://www.atlanticbreezes.com/helic...-plt-notes.htm


    Switch DIP 10 (RUDD MIX GYRO SENS) DOWN to enter config mode.  V2 is rudder mixing (0-100%) and V1 is gyro mode & gain.  For V1, CCW of the vertical is Rate mode.  Gain increases as your turn CCW (up to 100%).  _\|/_  CW of the vertical is Heading Hold mode.  Gain increases as you turn CW (up to 100%).




    ******************* If this is your first 6CH heli, don't try to hover it yet.  Read the bottom of section 5 *******************

    Heading Hold mode:
    Set V2 all the way CCW for no rudder mixing (always recommended in HH mode).  Set V1 to 1 o'clock.  Hover, land, adjust, and repeat until you have no tail wag, keeping V1 as far CCW as you can without passing 1 o'clock.


    Rate mode (this is how I like it for best trim control):
    Rotate V1 all the way CCW for max gain.  Throttle up until you are just below lift-off speed.  Rotate V2 CW or CCW until your tail is as steady as you can get it.  Hover, land, adjust, and repeat until you are happy with the results.  My goal is to get the tail close to stable at a hover so I can have maximum rudder control with the trim tab in Rate mode.
    _________________________________________________





    (5) Initialize the heli:
    _________________________________________________

    Open up the battery cover on the back of the controller and put in 8 AA batteries (the battery holder comes out and there are slots in the back of it).  Once you've done that, turn the controller on and set it to my Recommended Startup Settings (see above).

    Place the controller and the helicopter on the floor about 5ft apart, remove the helicopter canopy, and connect the battery using the blue connector.  If the controller connects to the receiver, you will hear a distinct beep sound, then a different beep that repeats 4 times.  At the same time, the servos will activate and your GY192 head lock gyro will turn solid RED.  This will start to happen within the first 3 seconds of plugging in the helicopter.

    If you don't get your BEEPS and REDS, uplug the heli and try again.

    *****CAUTION*****
    As soon as you connect the battery, get away from your helicopter and put your finger on the THRO DIP switch.  If the heli comes to life (throttle turns on maximum) after the first beep, flip the THRO DIP switch.  This will invert your throttle and effectively turn off the motor.  Go back to section 3 and verify your DIP switches.  If they are set correctly and your throttle stick was DOWN, there may be something wrong with your TX/RX.  Get help on RCdiscuss.
    *****CAUTION*****


    Your GY192 head lock gyro will turn BLUE within about 6-10 seconds.  If it is blinking RED and BLUE, unplug your heli, wait 3 seconds, and try again.  If your head lock gyro doesn't turn BLUE and stay that way, you won't be able to control your rudder pitch.

    If you are not getting BEEPS, your motor is not initializing.  I've found that sometimes turning the controller OFF and then back ON will initialize the motor.  The risk involved is that your heli may come to life because it does not have a signal to the receiver.  Even if turning the controller OFF and back ON causes the motor to initialize, the gyro (in my experience) will not initialize.  Leave the controller where it was when you turned it back on, then disconnect and reconnect the heli battery.  I have had fairly consistent success with this technique.

    Once you have your BEEPS and BLUES, you're ready to fly.  :goodluck

    If this is your first 6CH heli, DON'T fly it yet.  You're at least 3 days away from being ready.


    TEST YOUR CONTROLLER

    TEST YOUR CONTROLLER

    TEST YOUR CONTROLLER


    Remove your main blades for added safety.  Test your servos to make sure they are responding properly to your commands.

    Make sure your Rudder pitch is not "sticky".

    Make sure your dip switches are doing what they're supposed to do.

    Make sure Left is Left, Right is Right, Forward is Forward, Back is Back, throttle UP is throttle UP, pitch UP is pitch UP, rudder Left is Left and rudder Right is Right.

    Make sure your controls have the right amount of sensitivity.


    Before you decide to lift-off like NASA and end up with a Blackhawk Down (like I did), save yourself $80 in replacement parts and read RADD'S SCHOOL OF ROTARY FLIGHT.  Also check out  RC Helicopter Flight Training 450 & Beyond! **Radd's Method+More**.
    _________________________________________________





    (6) Seven-channel receiver configuration:
    _________________________________________________

    These are the receiver channels in the proper order and the devices that plug into them; you shouldn't have to mess with this unless there is something wrong with your controls:

    Channel 1 (ELEV) - Front servo

    Channel 2 (AILE) - Left servo

    Channel 3 (THRO) - Electronic Speed Controller (motor)

    Channel 4 (RUDD) - Gyro

    Channel 5 (GEAR) - Empty

    Channel 6 (AUX 1) - Right servo

    Channel 7 (AUX 2) - Gyro single wire, plugs into the prong closest to the label side

    Channel 8 (BATT) - Empty




    As you can see in the picture, the Orange wire goes closest to the LABEL side of the receiver.  Brown goes closest to the sticky side.
    _________________________________________________





    (7) Other helpful E-Razor info:
    _________________________________________________

    If you turn your controller off before unplugging your battery, or if you fly your heli out of controller range, your heli WILL come to life / turn on by itself.

    The balance charger that comes with this heli is a 1 AMP charger.  Your battery is not fully charged until both lights on the charger are GREEN.  It has taken up to 5 hours for me to get a full charge indication.  Get a better battery charger, one that has an LCD and can charge at up to 5 AMPS or so.  ***NOTE***  It has been brought to my attention that I have implied you should charge your Dynam batteries at 5A; that was not my intention.  You should charge your battery according to it's mAh.  No higher than 2.2A charge rate for 2200mAh, 0.8A for 800mAh, 3.2A for 3200mAh, you see the pattern.  Kaos, thanks for the help on this.

    The Li-Po battery is not a "memory" battery.  If you are like me, your favorite thing to do with rechargeable batteries is run them until they're dead, because it makes them last longer - but NOT Li-Pos.  If you run your Li-Po battery into the ground, you may never be able to recharge it again.

    The best thing to do is keep your flights short, charge your battery for a long time, and if you ever notice the heli motor getting weak, unplug the heli immediately and charge the battery.
    _________________________________________________





    (8) Stuff you might want to have on hand:
    _________________________________________________

    The parts I will link to here are spare parts for all Dynam E-Razor 450 models, or generic 450 parts.

    E-Razor 450 Spare Parts
    450 RC Helicopter Kits, Parts & Upgrades


    These parts are easy to break in a crash and you'll have a hell of a time trying to fly without them:

    #1 Blades - I keep on hand: 2 spare tail blade sets and 6 spare main blade sets (4 FRP and 2 CF)

    Tail blade ($2.76) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-003.html

    Main blade, Carbon Fiber 325mm ($8.60) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-pro-3251.html

    Main blade, FRP 325mm ($3.62) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-pro-3252.html
    Recommend you get the cheapos (FRP) if you're learning to fly.


    #2 Feathering shaft - holds your main blade clamps together on the main blade housing
    ($2.21 for a set, keep 2 sets on hand) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-040.html or http://www.nitroplanes.com/60p-erz-040.html

    Feathering shafts all out of stock?  These are an exact match, right down to the threads:
    Align HS1003 TREX 450 Feathering Shaft (All TREX 450 models except V2) - thx Steetz  :)
    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=HS1003&btnG=Search

    Mostly, I've found sets of 3 feathering shafts and 2 aluminum collars (5x3x1.5mm), or just 4 feathering shafts.
    h e l i d i r e c t . c o m has pictures that also show screws and washers, but they're not in the description http://www.h e l i d i r e c t .com/align-feathering-shaft-hs1003-p-132.hdx
    ehirobo.com shows 4 shafts with 2 aluminum collars http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/product_...oducts_id=4074


    #3 Landing skids
    ($3.86) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-019.html



    More parts you might need. 1 spare each is good:

    9g servo [if you're using stock servos] ($3.62) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-dy-1007.html

    Linkage rods ($3.31) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-009.html

    Connecting rods ($3.31) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-032.html

    O-rings ($1.47) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-041.html

    Bearings of all sizes:
    ($8.09) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-031.html
    ($6.07) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-029.html
    ($3.75) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-028.html
    ($3.75) - http://www.xheli.com/60p-erz-030.html




    Tools you can't live without:

    15PCS tool set from EXI ($35) - http://www.xheli.com/nowwi2newfrt.html


    Swash plate leveler ($4.70) - http://www.xheli.com/exile45t.html
    How to use the swash plate leveler - http://www.truebloodengineering.com/...howpage&pid=10




    Spare hardware:

    dyn001 - Dynam Razor 450 Stainless Steel Screw Kit from rcscrewz.com - thx mckrackin 
    http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info...oducts_id/3675

    This kit has all the hardware for your E-Razor 450, plus extra.  Comes in a plastic pit case.
    [size=8pt]WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN SPACE TIGER?  YOU'RE A TIGER YOU DON'T BELONG IN SPACE YOU CAN'T EVEN BREATHE THERE[/size]

  2. #2
    Official Member
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    RE: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    I exceeded the 20,000 character post limit.



    (9) My throttle stick is too tight/loose! =(
    _________________________________________________

    No problem, it takes 3 easy steps to fix!

    Step 1: Take out the battery pack and remove the 6 screws shown below, then remove the back cover. Use the correct size screwdriver so you don't strip out your screws.





    Step 2: Use the tension screw shown here to tighten or loosen the throttle stick. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Make small adjustments and then move the throttle stick up and down to test the tension. Once you've got it right, go to step 3.

    Be careful not to touch the PCB board and wires!




    Step 3: Replace the back cover and screws, making sure you don't overtighten them. Now go fly that heli!
    [size=8pt]WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN SPACE TIGER?  YOU'RE A TIGER YOU DON'T BELONG IN SPACE YOU CAN'T EVEN BREATHE THERE[/size]

  3. #3
    Gold Member
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    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    Wewders'
    LOOKS GREAT!! but somewhere you misunderstood me, dip no#9 must be on to
    fly. I printed it and put with manual for future reference, I'm old... sometime I forget!
    LOL. Again, thanks for all your help. I have noticed many posts with problems with this
    bird. I'm guessing they were returns, just an opinion. I think mine was. The best to you,
    nice working with you.
    Crash

  4. #4
    Gold Member
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    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    thanks ill try it and get back to u thanks for the help
    EXI 450 V2 alum  DX6i ar6200    Co-Pilot 2      "The City of Brotherly LOVE"

  5. #5

    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    Wewders. I got an eRazor in the mail on loan from Andy. I am finding results a bit different from yours and I think the main reason is that the last 3 dip switches I believe are NOT designed to be turned on any more than 1 at a time. In other words, the last 3 dip switches EXP, PLT/PIT, and RUDMIX/GYRO SENS should all be UP(off) normally.
    To activate each function, you ONLY flip ONE of those switches down at a time. This is consistant with how the Walkera 701 FM radio was which I am familiar with. Messing with these 3 dip switches can be tricky and if you accidently switch one on w/o paying attention to your knobs, you can really mess things up. I still am trying to digest all that you wrote up and the video but I'm concentrating on working with I'm seeing myself.

    wewders, In your terminology, your using the word GYRO when your talking about the swashplate. Gyro is your tail, swashplate is cyclic.

    So, here is my explanation and tell me anything you dissagree with and I'll look back over it.
    (note, I have yet to fly it, but I've set up about 20+ 450 helis in the past 2 years so this is nothing new to me)
    I will first go over initial setup based on experiance (I'll edit this once I've flown it)

    TX setup:

    Do This setup BEFORE YOU POWER UP Helicopter
    Proper Dip switch settings for eRazor (starting left to right)
    PIT:UP, CCPM/ELE:UP, NOR/CCPM: DOWN
    RUDOWN, THRO:UP, AILE:UP, ELEV: UP
    EXP:UP, PLT/PIT:UP, RUD MIX/GYRO SENSE : UP

    Verify the V1,V2 knobs are installed correctly, They should rotate from 7 oclock minimum (fully CCW) over and around to 5 oclock max (fully CW)

    My recommended Initial setup of the right 3 dip switches:
    Verify EXP,PLT/PIT, RUD MIX/GYRO SENSE are all UP.

    EXP : Set V1 to 12 oclock, Set V2 to 10 oclock
    Move Dip switch EXP down, pause, then back UP

    PLT/PIT : Set V1 to 12 oclock, set V2 to 12 oclock
    Move Dip switch PLT/PIT down, pause, then back up

    RUD MIX/GYRO SENS : Set V2 knob to fully CCW (7 oclock), Set V1 knob to 2 oclock
    Move Dip switch RUD MIX/GYRO SENS down, pause, then back up.

    Power up:
    The Rx binds with the Tx on every power up. The Tx pauses for a short while on start up to send out the bind command. If you don't connect power correctly, the gyro will not initialize.
    1) Power up Tx first and count to 5
    2) Power up the Heli and then don't touch it (gyro stabilizes and initializes)
    3) If gyro initializes, it turns blue, if not it will flash red/blue. IF so, quickly unplug/plug heli back in.

    I have spooled up the heli, but have yet to hover it.
    Next Post : Setting gyro gain on a test flight

  6. #6

    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    Setting Gyro gain

    When powering up the helicopter as above, 3D switch should be away from you for the ESC to properly initialize.
    Perform a pinch test :
    http://www.mycoolheli.com/gyrobenchtest.html
    With the helicopter initialized, set V2 fully CCW, Set V1 to 2 oclock.
    FLIP Dip switch RUDMIX/GYRO SENSE DOWN

    Hover the helicopter and verify the tail does not wag in a hover. If it does, then land and adjust V1 CCW (do not pass 1 oclock)
    If it does not wag, turn it a little CW
    Hover again.
    Keep doing this until you get a little wag in hover, then turn knob about 10-20 degrees CCW.

    Once you get the final gyro gain setting, flip dip switch RUDMIX/GYRO SENSE UP.

  7. #7

    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    Manual errors:
    Page 2:
    Left knob is NOT Gyro Sensitivity Kob, It is Rudder Mix (Revo Mix)
    Right knob is NOT Rudder mix (Revo Mix) it is gyro sensitivity (Gyro gain)

    Page 7
    Section 7.2 Reverse adjustment (all outof wack, ignore this)
    Section 7.3 This is Dip 9 PLT/PIT
    Section 7.4 This is DIP 10 RUDD MIX/GYRO SENSE
    Section 7.5 This is DIP 8 EXP
    Section 7.5.3 V2 in EXP mode does not affect throttle, it affects swash mix. This is JUST like a traditional SWASH AFR or SWASH mix. More CW on dial V2, the more cyclic roll you will have in both cyclic axis.

  8. #8

    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    There was and will be so much to write up, I decided to put it on my website for now. Once me and wewders can come to consensus on everything, I'll make a post that can hopefully become a sticky on rcdiscuss. Until then, we can continue this thread.

    http://www.mycoolheli.com/reviews/ReviewERazor450.html

  9. #9

    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    wewders, I am not sure what you are trying to show.

  10. #10
    Official Member
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    125

    Re: Everything you need to know about the Dynam E-Razor 450 TX, and more!

    I guess #1 is that putting the DIPs how you have them makes my rudder servo lose control.

    Other than that I guess I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around UP=off / DOWN=on. Only in China...
    [size=8pt]WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN SPACE TIGER?  YOU'RE A TIGER YOU DON'T BELONG IN SPACE YOU CAN'T EVEN BREATHE THERE[/size]

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